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St Lucia in Mannar

April 5, 2017

St Lucia in Mannar On the morning of the 13th, it was December and there was a breeze in the morning, people had already been up and gotten ready, put on new and crisp and clean-washed clothes, perhaps just purchased the day before and not yet worn only tried...

Sri Lanka’s Tamil temples

January 17, 2017

Between us and the sky: Sri Lanka’s Tamil temples In the morning, if you still have not woke up by the sound of dissatisfied dogs barking away to pass time, or the ever-repeated Für Elise jingle of Sri Lanka’s mobile bakery trucks, there will no doubt be a morning puja in a...

Older Dubai

May 18, 2014

Older Dubai Made a short stop in Dubai last week for an event for our book, Beirut Re-Collected (which can be ordered online here). The evening was nice: we met at The Archive in Safa Park for live readings from the book and a roundtable with our friends from...

After the rain

April 10, 2014

After the rain The night before, it had poured down. It came quickly – cold winds, overcast, then sudden, heavy rain. The power went at about the same time, and with it the yellow lights that dotted the slopes where the city climbs down towards the plains below. “Tomorrow...

Gurudwara dining

December 22, 2012

One day in Delhi, we were walking around Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest markets in the city. Outside the Sis Ganj Sahib Sikh temple, we bumped into a friendly guy called Vijay (or rather, he bumped into us). The friendliness, it turned out, came complete with a small...

Gandhiji’s Gujarat

December 19, 2012

Porbandar is a small coastal town in western Gujarat, complete with a crowded port, narrow alleys and an ever-present smell of fish and salty waters – and famous for two things. In recent times, it came to been known as a shady place, in the hands of criminal groups,...